GREAT chardonnay that enhances the reputation once again of this quality winemaker. Has that enticing light butter-filled flavour across lingering fruits.

A mainstay of the Shaw and Smith line-up, the M3 has always been a reliable and high-quality showcase for the best of Adelaide Hills wine. Ripe stone fruit, green apple and nutty flavours, rounded out by a touch of creamy barrel ferment, fill the mouth. The palate is long and satisfying, with a nice lift from the acid line. Enjoy over the next six to eight years.

Largely ex the Lenswood vineyard, handpicked, chilled overnight; whole bunch pressed, wild yeast fermented in new and used French barriques; nine months maturation. A seamless fusion of white peach, biscuity oak and fresh acidity. 12.5% alcohol; screw cap Drink to 2023.

The 2012 acquisition of a beautifully situated Lenswood vineyard of some pedigree was a fine move by the team at Shaw + Smith. That vineyard now makes up a large proportion of the fruit sourced for this particular wine. There has been a trend, mostly for the good, of paring back Chardonnay in this country; let's face it, those blousy, blown-out numbers from the 1990s were going nowhere. Some producers push it too far, the result: skeletal Chardonnays, all acid and sulphide and not much else. Others get it bang on. Shaw + Smith is one of those producers and their M3 Chardonnay continues to go from strength to strength. Detail, grace and precision. That's my three-word tasting note for this wine, though, of course, we'll expand on that a little for the sake of completeness. Nectarine, white peach, green apple and some pithy grapefruit are the dominant fruit characters here as well as lighter hints of roasted cashew, along with wafts of almond meal, subtle vanillin oak, nougat, stone and oatmeal. Elegant in the mouth, as only cool climate Chardonnay can be, the 2014 model shows fantastic fruit purity, texture and drive across the palate; beautifully weighted and taut showing great focus. Finishing with a sheen of porcelain-like acidity and a flourish of stone-fruit and meal, she's a beauty.

Largely ex the Lenswood vineyard, handpicked, chilled overnight; whole bunch pressed, wild yeast fermented in new and used French barriques; nine months maturation. A seamless fusion of white peach, biscuity oak and fresh acidity. 12.5% alcohol; screw cap Drink to 2023.

The 2012 acquisition of a beautifully situated Lenswood vineyard of some pedigree was a fine move by the team at Shaw + Smith. That vineyard now makes up a large proportion of the fruit sourced for this particular wine. There has been a trend, mostly for the good, of paring back Chardonnay in this country; let's face it, those blousy, blown-out numbers from the 1990s were going nowhere. Some producers push it too far, the result: skeletal Chardonnays, all acid and sulphide and not much else. Others get it bang on. Shaw + Smith is one of those producers and their M3 Chardonnay continues to go from strength to strength. Detail, grace and precision. That's my three-word tasting note for this wine, though, of course, we'll expand on that a little for the sake of completeness. Nectarine, white peach, green apple and some pithy grapefruit are the dominant fruit characters here as well as lighter hints of roasted cashew, along with wafts of almond meal, subtle vanillin oak, nougat, stone and oatmeal. Elegant in the mouth, as only cool climate Chardonnay can be, the 2014 model shows fantastic fruit purity, texture and drive across the palate; beautifully weighted and taut showing great focus. Finishing with a sheen of porcelain-like acidity and a flourish of stone-fruit and meal, she's a beauty.

A subtle, pale chardonnay. The elegant palate is light and fine, yet intense, with a mouth-watering finish. (Screwcap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.) Ageing?Yes, drink over one to five years. Food idea Linguini with crab.