This is a separate project by the guys at Shaw + Smith in the Adelaide Hills, whose mission is to make good, early-drinking wine from grapes and regions separate from their more serious flag-bearer. Cocoa powder, dry hanging herbs, Asian spice and fresh and desiccated red fruits show themselves in a finely scented nose. The texture is detailed and savory, a little dusty and a little juicy. The acid is bright and the concentration stains the palate pleasantly. I really could carry on about it.

All the impressions are positive. It’s juicy and distinctive and that combination is enough to recommend it. It’s dusty, jubey, grassy, curranty and super-fresh. There are briar, sap and woodsy aspects. Tannin presents as a series of crumpled sheets. It has good style, it’s entertaining, and it’s accessible.

Deep, bold, youthful purple/red colour, the aroma strong on vanilla, chocolate and charry oak. The wine is very savoury in the mouth, with meaty reductive notes and a thread of bitterness. Young and raw-edged, it needs time to settle down. It’s too young to drink. Released too early for a wine of its station.

This has an array of red berries and leafy nuances, leading to a palate that has rich, crunchy dark-fruit flavor. Red cherries and chocolate to close. Drink or hold.

Deep, bold, youthful purple/red colour, the aroma strong on vanilla, chocolate and charry oak. The wine is very savoury in the mouth, with meaty reductive notes and a thread of bitterness. Young and raw-edged, it needs time to settle down. It’s too young to drink. Released too early for a wine of its station.

This has an array of red berries and leafy nuances, leading to a palate that has rich, crunchy dark-fruit flavor. Red cherries and chocolate to close. Drink or hold.

This is from Kangaroo Island. It's a deliciously fruity and textured wine. There's a slightly earthy, gamey character which adds some interest to the usual perfumes of this variety. Great current drinking.