A beautifully supple wine with soft cherries and mulberries. Fleshy and plush, and supported by stylish framing tannin. Gorgeous now, though cellaring will benefit the wine.

Yangarra – aka the winery that can do no wrong. This blend includes 25% whole bunches and 50% whole berries, spending 15 months in 35% new oak. Despite being something of a different style for Yangarra, it’s a pretty classical Vale Shiraz, with lovely plush red berries and the barest hint of chocolate, the tannins ultra fine (but real) the mode very juicy and fruit forward. Maybe a little plumper and more red fruit than the excellent standard Shiraz, but so very well formed. Immediately attractive with the almost boysenberry purple berry fruit. Just a lovely generous McLaren Vale red. Best drinking: I like it now, and it will be better next year, and then still be tasty in a decade.

It’s a dense style and yet it remains remarkably fresh. This is the best of many worlds. Plush plum, savoury cloves and spice, silken slips of smoky/cedary oak, emery-board tannin. It’s almost raw with freshness and yet it’s complex and vinous. It’s lengthy. There’s a sense of wonder to this wine. It’s perfectly formed.

It’s a dense style and yet it remains remarkably fresh. This is the best of many worlds. Plush plum, savoury cloves and spice, silken slips of smoky/cedary oak, emery-board tannin. It’s almost raw with freshness and yet it’s complex and vinous. It’s lengthy. There’s a sense of wonder to this wine. It’s perfectly formed.

Whole bunches, wild yeast, open fermenters and all-French oak (35% new). The quality here is sensational. It delivers a power of fruit in the freshest of ways, its glove of smoky/cocoa-like oak the perfect partner. Seriously ultra-fine tannin, and accompanying length, completes what must be described as a beautiful picture.